I was having a hard time figuring out good presents for my much younger cousins (grades 3-7) that were still relatively cost effective. Most things that kids want now a days are electronic, and I like to give things that are either practical, or for kids, things that stimulate the imagination and cut screen time. When I discovered the original chain mail dragon tutorial, I immediately knew it was perfect. I've only slightly dabbled in chain mail, so I felt a little lost at first, but I am a quick learner and then I was making dragons in a couple of hours instead of over a couple days.
They're small, yet a good size so that they fit nicely in the hand.
I altered only a couple of things from the original pattern (Extra scales, legs and feet), so it's a really great dragon with or without my alterations. Some of the pictures in the original tutorial are kind of vague, so I've tried my best to make it a bit clearer for someone less experienced with mail (like myself).
Here's the link to the original tutorial found on a wonderful mail resource: mailleartisans.org. They have so many tutorials on different mail weaves and really made my experience smooth.
Feel free to add and remove things as you see fit to individualize your dragon.
Enjoy!
Tools: Two pairs of pliers, a ring opener, and a working surface
I prefer flat nosed pliers, but I've used needle nose pliers in the past that work fine. Needle nose do mar the rings a little more because of their gripping ridges. You can use just two pairs of pliers and no ring opener as well. I used my second pair of pliers to open/close those rings that are hard to reach or don't quite have enough space left to fit into the slot.
This was my first experience using a ring opener, and it is now a must tool for me when working with mail. It's drastically sped up as well as simplified my process, but more importantly it has freed up one of my hands. Instead of having a plier in each hand, I can now hold things with one hand while simultaneously open/close a ring. You can buy pliers at any hardware store or big box store, but ring openers are harder to find. I bought my ring opener from bluebuddhaboutique.com.
There are two sides. The first side has two slots for 18 gauge (18g) rings, and the other side has one slot for thinner 20 gauge (20g) rings, and one larger slot for 16 gauge (16g) rings.
To use the ring opener, simply insert half of the ring in the corresponding sized slot, and twist open or closed with your pliers.
Supplies: 3/16" 18g rings, 1/8" 18g rings, a split ring, and small scales
For one dragon, you're going to need a minimum of: 271 3/16" 18g rings, 4 1/8" 18g rings, and 16 small scales (7/8" x 9/16" x 0.025")
I purchased the 3/16" rings from amazon, a 100 pack of 1/8" rings from bluebuddhaboutique (because I needed more than 4 to make multiple dragons, and it was fairly cheap for a 100 pk in case I messed up or wanted to make more later), and my scales from bluebuddhaboutique.
You can get a split ring anywhere - craft stores, hardware stores, big box stores, etc.
Getting Started: Know your weaves
Do a little familiarizing with these weaves before you begin. I spent hours marring rings trying to figure out some of these, and it got really frustrating when I was trying to get my first dragon done. I would have saved a lot of time and patience if I had practiced some of the trickier weaves.
I've included the way I found the easiest for me (a right hander) in the tutorial below if you want to look at that, but if you've found another way more helpful, igore those pictures.
Here are other sources:
Assembly
The Head
We're going to start with a European 4 in 1 two links wide, three links high of 3/16" rings, and then add two 1/8" links at the top for nostrils. Below is a step by step of a European 4 in 1.
Skip to step 4 if you are comfortable with this weave.
Begin with two closed 1/8" rings, six closed 3/16" rings, and three open 3/16" rings.
1) Start your 4 in 1 by placing four closed links onto one open link. Then close the link.
I've highlighted the open link in red
Arrange the links and this is what it should look like when it's completed
2) Next, add an open link and weave the ring in correctly so it will continue the pattern
Add two closed rings onto the open ring. Then close the open link.
I've highlighted the open ring in red and the additional two closed rings in blue.
Arrange the links and this is what it should look like when it's completed
3) Now that you've made your 2 x 3 swatch of 3/16" rings, we have to add the remaining two 1/8" rings (the nostrils). Do so in the same way as the last step.
I've highlighted the open ring in red and the additional two 1/8" closed rings in blue.
Arrange the links and this is what it should look like when it's completed. You've now finished your first 4 in 1 swatch!
4) Now make another just like the first so you have two identical 4 in 1 swatches.
5) Now we will start making the head 3D by combining the two swatches.
You'll need your two swatches, a split ring, and eight open 3/16" rings
Place one upside down (center rings layered towards the nostrils) on your thumb.
Then place the other swatch right side up on top of the other (center rings layered away from the nostrils)
Hold them together so you can start weaving in the connecting rings
6) Weave one open ring into the four rings on the left side bottom to top. Close the ring.
7) Do the same thing three more times going through four rings each time
8) Flip the head over and repeat on the other side.
Here's what it should look like with step 7 is complete
9) Now we're gonna thread a link through the four nostril links
I like to pinch the head so that the four links line up for threading the open one through
I've highlighted the nostril rings in blue, and the new connecting ring in red
10) Now we'll add the split ring with the last open link.
Place the open link through the last ring you added through the nostrils. Then before closing, add the split ring.
I highlighted the open ring in red
Your added split ring should look like this
Next, we are going to add some ears with the box chain flip method. You'll need two closed 3/16" links and four open 3/16" links for each ear
To begin the first ear (I'll be showing you the right ear, but you can start with whichever you choose), you'll put the first open link into the bottom link of each original 3x4 swatch of 4 in 1. Below I've highlighted the top layer rings in red, the bottom layer rings in blue
11) Thread an open link through the two links (top link and bottom link)
Before closing the open link, add the two closed rings
The open link is highlighted in red, the closed rings in blue
Now add another open link following the path of the first open link
It should look like this when step 11 is complete
12) Now comes the flip method which can get tricky if you're not paying attention.
Open the two rings on the end
Now flip them over and pinch them with your fingers
Spread out the new rings on the top
And thread an open link in between and parallel to the top links and hook through the flipped rings
(highlighted in blue)
Close the link
Repeat with the last open link following the path of the previous open link. Close
Your finished ear should look like this when completed
Now repeat steps 11-12 on the other side. Your completed ears should look like this
Now we're going to make some eyes for our dragons. It doesn't really matter top or bottom, on which side the eyes go. Maybe hold your head by the split ring to see which side you prefer depending on how the split ring makes the head hang.
You'll need seven open links
13) You'll be threading your first link through these two of the flipped box chain (highlighted in blue)
Take one open link and thread it through these two links. Close
Now use another open link to thread through the same two links as the first, but also go through the first one. You'll be threading through three links total. Close
The open link is highlighted in red and the previous link in blue.
Again, thread an open link through the same two links of the box chain, as well as the previous two you just added. Close
The open link is highlighted in red, the previous two in blue
Your first completed eye should look like this.
Repeat on the other side.
Your completed eyes should looks like this
The last step of your eyes is to take the final open link and thread it through the six rings of the eyes (to hold the eyes together so they don't flop about)
The last step of your head is to do some reinforcement. This step helps make the head a little tighter/stronger and helps hold the eyes up so your dragon can see.
You'll need three open 3/16" links
14) You'll be weaving the first through the center eye ring added last in the previous step, and also through one of the box chain links. They are highlighted in blue below
Weave through and close link
Open link highlighted in red
Do the same on the other side
The final link connects the two that were just added Open link highlighted in red
Congratulations! You've finished your head!
Here are some completed head reference pics
The Body
The body is comprised of two half Persian 3 in 1 chains leaning in opposite directions (right and left), then woven together.
We're going to start with a half Persian 3 in 1 leaning to the right. Right leaning was easier for me to learn the weave because I'm right handed. If you're left handed, I recomment starting with the left leaning (see step 16).
To start we're going to need twenty-six closed rings, and twenty-four open links.
15) Start by placing three closed rings on one open link. Close Make sure the three closed rings are arranged exactly like the picture, other wise the weave will not work.
We will be focusing on the two most right links of the top three
These are highlighted in blue
Now place a closed ring on an open link.
The open link is highlighted in red, the new closed ring in light blue
Now take your open link (with the closed ring on it) and weave it through the two right most links bottom to top (right to left)
Close the link. It should look like this when the three previous steps are finished
Now repeat those three steps again
Focus on the two right most links on the top row
Place a closed ring on an open link
And weave through bottom to top (right to left) with the open link (with the closed link on it)
Close the link
Continue in this pattern until you've used all of your links.
Now there are two "loose" links hanging in the top row on both sides. Remove the one from the beginning (left side) and weave it through on the end (right side) in the same way as before.
You should now have twenty-five links on the top row as well as the bottom row with no "loose" links.
Now we've finished the half Persian right leaning weave!
Now for the the left leaning half Persian 3 in 1.
As a right handed individual, I find it easier to work the left leaning half Persian upside down, however the pictures will be right side up.
To start we're going to need twenty-six closed rings, and twenty-four open links.
16) Start by placing three closed rings on one open link. Close Make sure the three closed rings are arranged exactly like the picture, other wise the weave will not work.
We will be focusing on the two most left links of the top three
These are highlighted in blue
Now place a closed ring on an open link.
The open link is highlighted in red, the new closed ring in light blue
Now take your open link (with the closed ring on it) and weave it through the two left most links bottom to top (left to right)
Close the link. It should look like this when the three previous steps are finished
Now repeat those three steps again
Focus on the two left most links on the top row
Place a closed ring on an open link
And weave through bottom to top (left to right) with the open link (with the closed link on it)
Close the link
Continue in this pattern until you've used all of your links.
Now there are two "loose" links hanging in the top row on both sides. Remove the one from the beginning (right side) and weave it through on the end left side) in the same way as before.
You should now have twenty-five links on the top row as well as the bottom row with no "loose" links.
Now we've finished the half Persian left leaning weave!
Your finished half Persian 3 in 1s
Now to combine the two half Persian chains into the body
You'll need 23 open 3/16" links
17) Take an open link and weave it through the two right most links in the middle of each strip. Weave bottom to top. Close link
The open link is highlighted in red. The links it's being worked into are in blue
Here's a closer look
Now move down one row, and weave in another open link bottom to top.
Make sure you go through the two bottom links of the preivous row
The open link is highlighted in red. The links it's being worked into are in blue
Continue in this fashion until you only have one open link left
The last open link will go into only two links as opposed to the four links done before. They are still the middle two.
The open link is highlighted in red. The links it's being worked into are in blue
Here's a closer look
Here's what your assembled body should look like.
Attaching the Head
Attaching the head is a fairly straight forward task.
You will need one open 3/16" link
Now we will be focusing on where the head and the body obviously connect.
We'll be opening the top links of the body (red) and closing them around the head links (blue)
A closer look
18) Put your open link aside.
Open the link on body on the lower side and thread it through the corresponding head link. Close
Do the same on the other side
The two steps completed
Now grab your open link and weave it through the two head links you just used
Attaching Scales
You'll need thirty open 3/16" links, and fifteen scales. I like to stamp one of the scales on the inside with a DM for Dinosaur Made
*Note: I used 3/16" rings because I have so many. The original tutorial uses 1/8" rings. I recommend using 1/8" rings if you have some to spare. It looks a little neater because they scales can't flop around as much on a smaller ring. I personally don't mind it being a little looser, but the perfectionist in me would use the 1/8" rings*
19) Starting at the second link from the bottom, attach a scale with a link. Close the ring
Open link highlighted in red, second link from the bottom in blue
Insert another open link into the second ring from the bottom on the other side of the body. Before closing, thread in the scale
Going up the body, skip a ring, and insert an open link, attach a scale and close.
On the other side, again, going up, skip one ring and insert an open link. Catch the scale on the link before closing
Continue in this pattern (skip one, add a scale) until you have three scales and six open links left
The three remaining scales are for the head - two ears and one head scale
20) For the right ear, weave an open link through the top link of the body that doesn't have any extra attachments. Add a scale before closing the link
Place another open link through the same body ring that attaches the head
Do the same on the left side
Finished ear scales
Now for the last head scale. This one is centered on the head which will help cover the head-body junction.
You will be attaching the open links to the rings that attach the head to the body
Finished head scales
Tail Assembly
The tail is a byzantine weave with a regualr box chain on the end
Starting with the byzantine, you will need seven closed 3/16" rings, and twelve open 3/16" links
21) Start by placing three closed rings onto two open rings
The open rings are highlighted in red, the closed rings in blue
Hold the three closed rings and let the two previously open rings hang
Separate the two hanging rings
Now take an open link and weave it through the two outer links of the three you're holding while going between and paralell to the spread hanging rings
Close the link
Take another open link and weave it through the same way as the previous link.
Next, take an open link and put it through the two links you just added. Before closing, add two closed rings
Previous rings highlighted in blue, open ring in red, additional closed rings in light blue
Weave an open ring through the same links as the previous one.
Split open the end rings
Flip them over and pinch them
Spread open the two end links.
Take an open link and thread it through the flipped rings while in between and parallel to the spread rings.
Thread an open link through the same rings as the previous link
Put an open link through the two just added. Before closing, add two closed links.
Thread an open link through the same way as the previous link
Spread open the two end links
Flip them over. Pinch. Spread open the two end links. Insert an open link through the links you're pinching in between and paralell to the spread end links
Add the last open link through the same way as the link just added
Your finished byzantine weave
22) Now we will add a small box chain onto the end of your byzantine
You will need two closed 3/16" rings and four open 3/16" links
Take an open link and thread it through the two end links of the byzantine chain. Before closing, add the two closed rings
Byzantine links highlighted in blue, open link in red, added closed rings in light blue
Now weave an open link through the same way as the previous link
Place an open link through the two end rings
Put the last open link through the last ring
Your finished tail chain
Attaching the tail to the body
We will be attaching the tail to the end of the body where we left that single middle link when stitching the two half Persian chains together.
You will need no extra links
23) Here you can see where we left that last ring on the body highlighted in blue
Now take the link from the beginning of the byzantine chain (highlighted in red) and weave it through the same links as the last ring of the body (blue)
Now thread the last ring of the body through the end rings of the byzantine chain. This makes the end byzantine link and the end body link parallel. Highlighted in red
Your attached tail
Adding the tail scale
You will need two 1/8" open links and one scale
24) Make your tail straight and flat so you know which side is the top.
Thread an open link through the bottom double link of the tail. Add the scale before closing
Repeat on the other side
Upside down view
Making the legs
You will need four closed 3/16" rings and seven open 3/16" links
25) Place four closed rings on an open link
Thread an open link through the four closed links
Arrange the links 2-2-2
Add an open link to an end
Add another open link through the same end, but also through the previous link
Add an open link through the same end and also through the two interlaced links
Add a fourth open link to the end and through the three intertwined rings. This will complete the foot
Your finished leg with the extra open link (for attachment)
Make three more for a total of four legs
Attaching the legs to the body
You won't need any additional links
26) Flip your dragon onto its back so the belly is face up
Add one of your attachment open links into the side link third from the top
Add the leg before closing the link
Repeat on the other side
Now go down towards the tail twelve links from the fore legs
Attach leg and close link
Repeat on the other side
Congratulations! You've finished your dragon! Now all that is left is to name it
Top View
Bottom View
Flexibility View
Hanging View
Curled View
Front View